Mammoths magnified

We had high hopes for a late afternoon session in the sunken photographic hide at Hwata Pan, and weren’t disappointed. This hide really comes into its own now during the dryer months when natural pans have all but dried up. As we opened the sturdy steel door and settled ourselves inside, the world beyond our periphery vision melted away, replaced by a thrill of, “What’s going to arrive?” The six front windows that open up onto the waterhole, with no glass – only the open air between you – give you front row seats to whatever might wander in.

Soon enough four large elephant bulls emerged, almost silently, from the mopane woodlands. The late afternoon light was beautiful, and you could sense the elephants were in no hurry and would be with us for a long while.

It was amazing to watch them, only metres away, as each tested the water, sucked up an initial amount and then blew that out, before sucking up larger volumes and pouring it into their mouths. There was some jostling for position, but the first 20 minutes or so was all about serious drinking. After that they sprayed water on themselves to cool down, had mudbaths, and engaged in some friendly sparring and displays of what could be interpreted as brotherly affection.

Another advantage of being in the hide is that you witness all this ‘big picture’ behaviour, but are also able to zoom in with your camera lens and photograph details impossible to see from a vehicle or on foot: You notice the mapwork of skin wrinkles, their bristly hairs, the soupy droplets of water dripping off them, the large veins in their ears, and stains on their skin.

Sometimes the elephants stand directly in front of the hide’s window openings and are only centimetres away! Then their details are further amplified, at eye level, and you might feel their breath, notice the flecks of dry mud on their eyelashes, or how their two nostrils end in fingertips. You might even get splashed with mud!

Protected by the hide’s sturdy walls, it is both a humbling and electrifying and addictive experience. The elephants spent over two hours with us – precious moments never to be forgotten.

Curtains of water droplets. Below: stains of green from feeding, and red from dust bathing.

Brotherhood companionship. Below: a green mopane leaf stuck to a stained ivory tusk.

Notice the divide between the two nostrils, and the hairs on the trunk.

Marvel at the shine on wet toenails and the patterns beneath their feet.