As the alarm sounds at just after four in the morning and you peek out your window and all you can see is darkness, you know the grip of winter is upon you. The morning air is icy and piercing as it fills your lungs. A cup of coffee with a rusk or two is a necessity before game drive. As you add the third layer of clothing to insulate your body from the cold you make your way to the idling Land Rover and off on safari. The first sign of life is a coalition of five male lions, their crisp tracks clearly visible on the two-track road ahead. The ridge to the east reveals the baboons waiting for the sun to rise, exploiting the treetops where the rays will first take hold. Up ahead your Ranger points out where the lions left the road to the river, the dew that forms early morning disturbed by the kings of Lebombo.