Black rhino at Singita Pamushana Lodge

Tracking the temperamental black rhino has to be one of the most exciting and challenging activities for a field guide. Black rhino are notoriously aggressive, and will not hesitate to charge, even when one is in the confines of a vehicle. Singita Pamushana Lodge is home to a healthy population of these animals, which offered me a fantastic opportunity to learn more about them.

Our mission was to locate the fresh spoor of a black rhino and continue to follow the tracks until we finally located the animal. In order to optimise our chances of seeing one, we decided to set off early in the morning when the day is still cool and rhinos are the most active.

James Suter tracking the black rhino James Suter tracking the black rhino

They mainly drink at night or early in the morning, so the logical place to start was at one of the larger pans. It was a challenging task, as we had to select one particular track that seemed the most promising. It had to be the freshest track and not only would we have to distinguish this spoor from the hundreds of others surrounding the waterhole, but we would also have to make sure we continued trailing the same one. After circling the pan a number of times we selected the tracks of a single bull and set off with our noses to the ground.

James Suter tracking the black rhino

We were headed south, straight into the thick Mopane forest. I noted the fresh dung as well as the broken branches the rhino had left as clues. As we went deeper into the scrub, I felt my heart rate quicken and my ears and eyes sharpen, all the while considering the black rhino’s fearsome reputation.

Black rhino charging the group

The startled oxpeckers alerted us to the proximity of our quarry when they took to the air as we approached, pricking the ears of the large figures below them in the undergrowth. We kept silent and still, wary of giving away our position. Suddenly the wind changed against us and the rhino caught our scent, lumbering straight for our hiding place. The best response when being charged by a rhino is to find a tree to climb or hide behind (since rhino have bad eyesight, they usually can’t distinguish between a large tree trunk and the perceived threat of a person). We promptly found a thicket to hide behind, hearts pounding, and quietly watched the rhino retreat into the shadows of the forest, feeling great respect for these massive but agile beasts.

Black rhino charging the group

James Suter is an experienced Singita field guide with a passion for photography. Check back regularly for more of James’ stories from Singita’s private reserves in South Africa, Zimbabwe and Tanzania.


Similar blog Posts

Singita Sabi Sand, South Africa

The Return of the Rains

Maintaining the integrity of each Singita reserve and the ecosystems that exist within it is one of the main priorities for our hands-on conservation teams. It’s a challenging task, that includes managing issues like human-wildlife conflict, alien plant control and habitat restoration, but is also often influenced by uncontrollable external factors, such as drought. Towards…

Read More
Serengeti Green Season

Christmas on the Wild Side

For many, the idea of the Serengeti landscape conjures visions of endless golden grasslands and the stark outline of dry, thorny scrub. This is indeed one face of this vast ecosystem, but it can also be a shimmering, emerald sea of dense vegetation and flowering plants; the summer “green season”. Christmas falls towards the beginning…

Read More

Lodges and Camps

Wildlife

Food

Latest Wildlife Report

Singita Grumeti

Green season is finally upon us, with steady rain falling throughout the month of March, the plains are a sea of green. We seem to be going into our long rains, which typically fall from March through to May, and this year they were very well received. Much of Tanzania has experienced a drought as...

Read More
View all Wildlife Reports

Videos from Singita

Latest Video

Singita Serengeti House - The Inspiration

Overlooking a well-visited waterhole on the south-eastern slopes of Sasakwa Hill, this welcoming exclusive-use retreat for families and friends is chosen for carefree private relaxation in a home-like atmosphere. This is a happy, vibrant place conducive to bonding and making precious memories in one of Africa’s most beautiful locations.

Community & Conservation
A Wildlife Showcase
All Videos